Kundan work involved setting costly gemstones with pure gold foil between the stones and the mount. This is supposed to be the earliest forms of jewellery adornment in the royal courts during Mughal times. Kundan means highly refined gold, i.e. refined and pure molten gold is used. Kundan jewellery is created by setting carefully shaped, cut and polished multicoloured gemstones into an exquisitely designed pure gold or faux metal base. There are six stages in the process. Slowly the costly gold replaced by silver and the gemstones came within the reach of the common man. Today the silver also has been replaced by gold and silver coated ornaments. The costly stones too have given way to cheaper imitations. Kundan work today involves the use of crystals, beads, mirror work, zari thread. Designs having patterns in shapes of squares, diamonds, heart shape, round, mango shaped are employed. The bridal trousseau generally has kundan work on it to enhance the finery display.
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